Wood Repair And Replacement

Replacing dry rot, termite damage, and install new fascia board.

We do more than just painting! We also repair wood damage from termites or rot or anything else that can happen to it. We also install new fascia boards or replace old ones. Here's what we do to help fix some common wood repairs:

Dry Rot Repair

• Remove Rotten Wood: What we’re going to need to do is grind out any area of rotted wood before we can apply epoxy so that it can stick to the wood.
• Scrape Off Loose Paint: Next we would have to scrape off all old paint so the epoxy can stick to the wood.
• Add Bonding Agent: Before the epoxy we use a bonding agent to the wood so epoxy can adhere to the wood better. There is a gun with 2 liquids that dispenses the right amount of epoxy.
• Remaining Patch Jobs: After we have pressure washed, scraped, and sanded the area we will also check for any minor repairs that need tending before we paint. Again, this is another detail process that makes for a much better result when you finish painting.
• Application: After mixing the substance we have 30 minutes to apply the material compound. Epoxy flexes with the wood as it expands and contracts.
• Drying The Epoxy: Letting the epoxy dry is crucial to this technique. After a day passes, we come back and sand it, prime it, and finally paint it.

Termite Damage Repair

Inspecting And Assessing The Termite Damage: Once we have inspected the infected area we can use a material of synthetic wood that the termites don’t want to eat. Termites will eat through anything to get to some fresh wood. Depending when the home was built, there are certain slopes that allow water to build up around the bottom area of wood. Which over time rots out the wood, on topo of termites eating away. This is very dangerous for the foundation can be at risk.

• Replace Joists: Depending on the damage, some joists and joists need to be replaced completely.
• Remove Rotten Wood: Next we have to remove the rotten wood with a chisel filling in gaps with wood hardener as we go and wait for it to fully dry. This can be sped up using a hair dryer and once dried you can sand down the excess wood hardener to match the existing wood.
• If The Damage Has A Long Hollowed Out Groove: If the damage has long hollowed out groove, we will need to use a wood filler instead of the hardener. Same steps apply. Making sure we get all the air bubbles out with a putty knife. If these options are not to your liking there is always replacing the entire block of wood. Restructuring it entirely.

Replacing The Fascia Board

Fascia boards are a very common problem for homeowners because of where they are located just beneath the roofline. It's a very high moisture area and this can soak the fascia boards which will significantly reduce their lifespan and cause rot and deterioration.

• Check To See If You Have Any Rot: Fascia board rot is identified as having soft spots on the boards and dark cavities on the surface.
• Find The Source Of Water: Before we repair the rotten fascia board, we need to find out exactly where all the water came from that caused the rot in the first place, otherwise we will just have to come back after some time to replace it again and we don't want to waste your time or money. One of the most common sources of water for rotten fascia boards are damaged roof shingles. One way to combat this is to install a drip edge on the edge of your roof shingles to redirect the water away from your fascia boards.
• Remove Rotten Fascia Boards: Using a utility knife or box cutter, we score the caulking along the seams of the rotten fascia boards so when we remove them they don't rip up other parts inadvertently. Then we stick our "six-in-one" painters' tool to wedge up under the fascia board and wiggle it until it comes loose. Once it's loose, we can use a hammer to knock our tool deeper behind the board and wiggle even more. You don't want to overdo it! We take our time and make sure nothing gets damaged in the process.
• Assess The Sub-Fascia Boards: It's always good practice to the exposed framing lumber, if that too is rotten and decomposing we will have to replace that as well before we put in the new fascia boards.
• Clean The Sub-Fasci Boards: In this step we will be scraping caulk lines and any dried excess paint drips and removing any fasteners that may be sticking out as this will prevent the new boards from sitting properly. The area needs to be completely clean and smooth.
• Measure New Boards: The easiest way to do this is to use the old board that we removed as a template to cut the new boards. That's why we take great care when removing the bad boards - so we can sue them later to measure and cut the news ones to fit perfectly. Making new fascia boards can be a little difficult because not only do they need to be the right length, they also need to be the right size.
• Cut The New Fascia Boards: First and foremost - when we replace fascia boards, we always recommend using a PVC material because they a rot-resistant. If you want to use wood, we would reccommend to use clear pine, not knotty pine, and to stay away from manufactured board that is held together with finger joints as they will fail a lot faster than actual wood.
• Attach The New Boards: There are not a lot of pressures on fascia boards so in most cases all that's needed are nails at the top and bottom of the board.
• Caulking: Once everything is fastened properly, we caulk all the seams and gaps to prevent moisture from entering behind the fascia boards and causing more damage. After waiting for it to dry it's ready to paint!